Western Europe - Day 8

Brussels (BELGIUM) The morning began with a 3 hours drive to Brussels, a city of cobbled streets, paintings and tapestries. But let's not forget Brussels sprouts and Godiva chocolates.

Landmark Building in Brussels. Originally constructed for the 1958 World Expo.

Brussels sprout are named after the fact that they were cultivated in Belgium in the 16th century. 

(Also, it's Brussels sprouts, not Brussel sprouts, and it's Brussels sprout even if you're only referring to one sprout.)

The luxury Belgian Chocolatier "Godiva" was founded in 1926 in Brussels by Joseph Draps. He named his chocolate company after Lady Godiva of Coventry, a beautiful English noblewoman married to the Earl of Mercia 10 centuries ago.

According to a legend dating at least to the 13th century, Lady Godiva rode naked (covered only in her long hair) through the streets of Coventry to gain a remission of the oppressive taxation that her husband, the Earl of Mercia, imposed on his tenants. The name "Peeping Tom" for a voyeur originates from later versions of this legend in which a man named Thomas watched her ride and was struck blind or dead.

However, the version I heard as a wee little kid differed from the above.  Lady Godiva rode naked (covered only in her long hair) to prove the innocence of her husband, the Earl of Mercia, who was thrown into the dungeons for some misconduct.  My version made a lot more sense. What sort of  husband would suffer his wife to ride naked through a public street to be gawked and ogled by all and sundry?

Next on the agenda was wonton noodle at a Chinese restaurant. It was the last day at the restaurant as its owner had sold off the business and were planning to return to Hong Kong. How were the noodles? So mediocre it did not justify a picture.

The coach dropped us here for the walk to the restaurant.

Brussels (capital of Belgium)

Shopping outlets

Interior of the Galeries Royales St Hubert

Finally, the wonton noodle restaurant

Manneken Pis BRUSSELS After lunch, we embarked on a walking tour to Manneken Pis. (Dutch for "Little Pissing Man") This is a landmark (61 cm) bronze fountain sculpture in the center of Brussels. It depicted a naked little boy urinating into the fountain's basin.

Replica of the original which dates from 1965.

The statue is a symbol of defiance from a small city with a strange sense of humor. It most probably started out as a public fountain, with the peeing boy as a homage to the tanners, as medieval tanners let children and street urchins pee on leather to make it more supple.

 Designed by Jérôme Duquesnoy the Elder and put in place in 1618 or 1619. 

Time passed and people forgot how the statue got there in the first place.  Incredible legends made their rounds.  The most popular was the story of a little peeing boy who saved the city.  In this version, Brussels was surrounded by enemies. While appearing to have retreated, the enemies placed tons of gunpowder under the city. A little boy saw the burning fuse and quickly peed on it.

In another well-loved tale, the peeing boy is actually a historic figure. (Duke Godfrey III of Leuven.)  As a child, he was put in a basket up an oak tree to encourage the knights fighting in his honor.  Every now and then the toddler stood up and peed on the heads of his enemies.

In 1747, French grenadiers from Louis XV’s army thought it would be funny to steal the statue. Threatened with a huge riot, Louis severely punished the jokers and gave Manneken back to the city, dressed in expensive brocade, embroidered with gold and decorated with the cross of Saint-Louis.

That wasn’t the only war and abduction Manneken Pis survived.  He had been stolen, retrieved, destroyed and remade several times throughout history. The little peeing boy made it through terrible bombardments which leveled a good chunk of the city, and was unscathed during the world wars.

Located at an obscure corner near the Grand Place, it was said among locals that the statue (a replica) of *Everard t'Serclaes brings luck and good wishes to all who touched it. Many tourists (not me) rubbed the statue, particularly the arm, because legend has it that rubbing the arm will ensure one's return to Brussels.

Everard is commemorated by a monument sculptured by artist Julien Dillens (1849-1904)

Other parts were just as fervently molested by one and all. The constant polishing on such parts as the face of an angel, a dog, and the shields kept the parts shining vis-a-vis the rest of the sculpture.

* In October 1356, Everard t’Serclaes scaled a Brussels city gate and with the help of Brussels patriots, pushed the Flemish troops out of the city. He was known as the liberator of Brussels.  Everard breathed his last breath at the Grand Place in the Maison de l’Etoile.

Popular belief took to the arm of the statue during World War I. Tormented by the occupation, the people of Brussels put their trust in t’Sercales by touching his hand. This action evolved over time to be a caress from his head to his feet. Superstitions quickly developed.

Grand Place, BRUSSELS The Grand Place is undoubtedly the most beautiful public square in the world. It is surrounded on all four sides by opulent guildhalls and two larger edifices; the city's Town Hall, and the King's House (Bread-House) building containing the City Museum.

Town Hall

There’s no church here!  The most famous square in the Belgian capital is all about business!

The year was approximately 979.  A man called Charles, who was the Duke of Lower Lorraine, built a fort on Saint-Gery Island, effectively establishing the new city. He chose this spot because it was the furthest inland that the Senne river was still navigable by boat. Henceforth, the city became an important European trading town.

Goods coming in by boat would not be able to go any further, goods from the land would be brought here to be taken further away. A lot of money traded hands at this new little settlement. Over the centuries, the markets expanded in size and importance. They were all based around the area that is today’s Grand Place

Charles Buls versus King Leopold II

The 19th century saw technological advancement which increased farm productivity. Farm workers, replaced by machines, headed for the cities.  Life expectancy increased. Population exploded. Slums emerged together with epidemics and chaos.

King Leopold II wanted wide spacious lanes and organized parks in the city so canals were dug and railway stations built. By improving the infrastructure, he facilitated the workers to move to the suburbs while commuting to work in the center of Brussels.  At the same time Leopold II created suburbs for the rich. Being a Freemason and a member of the liberal party, Charles Buls became mayor of Brussels in 1881.  Buls was a supporter of progressive causes, especially in language issues and education.  At his initiative bilingual signposts was established throughout the city. His most lasting achievement was his opposition to the ostentatious architectural plans of King Leopold II, and the resulting preservation of old parts of Brussels.

Commemorative plaque of Charles Buls, (1837-1914)  One of Brussels' most beloved mayors.  Located at an unobtrusive corner of the Grand Place.

In 1899, the architects of Brussels who had been involved in the restoration work of the Grand Place buildings paid for a memorial commemorating Buls.  

We left Brussels at 1530 for the 5 hours drive to Reims (France). Dinner at the Novotel in Reims was dismal. It was late and we were hungry and exhausted. The wine did little to raise our spirit. Salad with ham Dessert: Apple pie and ice cream

Chicken with rice and kurma